Ozark Trail, lower Trace Creek Section

The Ozark Trail is a part of a vision, conceived in 1977, to build a scenic and varied route through the Missouri Ozarks, stretching from the St. Louis metropolitan area southwestward to the Arkansas border, eventually connecting to the Ozark Highlands trail–creating a 700 mile through-trail. Almost 550 miles of trail have been completed, with 350 miles in Missouri.
Ozark Trail Association

My friend Rich and I have been hiking sections of the Ozark Trail for several years now. So far, we have completed ~175 miles, and we hope to eventually hike the entirety of the trail. Yesterday we hiked the 11.5-mile southern stretch of the Trace Creek Section, starting at the Hwy DD crossing in Iron Co. and finishing at the Hwy A trailhead, where the Trace Creek Section joins the Bell Mountain portion of the Taum Sauk Section. The first few miles traversed relatively mild terrain as we followed the Telleck Branch, but after crossing the upper reaches of the Big River the terrain became progressively more rugged. The trail ended with a spectacularly steep descent down to Ottery Creek at the foot of Bell Mountain.

It was a gray day with light drizzle and increasing fog. The air was heavy with moisture, but with temperatures in the upper 30s and only light winds it didn’t feel too cold. While many sections of the Ozark Trail offer spectacular vistas overlooking the regions many spring-fed rivers, few such vistas are found on this section. What we did see were bright green lichens on rocks, on oak trunks, and on the ground underneath pines, small openings in the forest eerily shrouded in fog, and a variety of ferns along stream banks and in rock crevices, dripping with moisture. It rained lightly at one point, forcing us to break out our ponchos, but the rain didn’t last and we were able to stow the ponchos for good afterwards. It was a serene, beautiful experience with not another soul in sight during the entire day. The solutide contributed as much to the splendor as did the visual beauty. Following are some pictures from the day:

A foliose lichen plasters the surface of a rock outcrop

Closeup of the above, showing an highly convoluted 3-dimensional structure

I believe this is type of “reindeer lichen” – Cladina sp. – growing in a colony on sandy soil underneath a pine tree

Close up of the above, showing the intricacies of its fruticose structure

Water hangs heavy from leafless petioles of a downed oak tree

One of the shelf or crust mushrooms, growing on the trunk of an oak tree

Closeup of the above

Hawn State Park

Hawn State Park, located at the eastern edge of the St. Francois Mountains near Ste. Genevieve, is one of Missouri’s premier parks. Spring-fed streams meandering through stately pine and oak forest have cut deep into Lamotte sandstone bedrock to create canyon-rimmed valleys with tall vertical cliffs. In some areas the streams have exposed underlying igneous rock to create “shut-ins” where water rushes through granite outcrops. This diversity of rock exposures has resulted in a diverse and unique flora, with many of the park’s 660 species of trees, shrubs, ferns, and wildflowers known from nowhere else in the state.

I first visited Hawn some 25 years ago. It quickly became one of my favorite spots for insect collecting and hiking. While most of my insect collecting activities now take place outside of Missouri, it remains one of my favorite places to hike. The 1-mile Pickle Creek Trail follows the lower banks of the stream, offering beautiful views of the sandstone cliffs and granite shut-ins, while the 6-mile north loop of the Whispering Pine Trail traverses the upper bluffs and through the 2,080-acre designated wilderness area. A 4-mile south loop can be added onto the north loop to create a spectular 10-mile hike. I have hiked these trails many times throughout the years, though not recently, and my daughters Mollie (11) and Madison (8) had never been there, so I decided it was time to return for a family day trip.

Pickle Creek flows through igneous granite “shut-ins”

The girls take a break while ascending to the bluffs

Lamotte sandstone cliffs overlooking Pickle Creek

The best views from the cliffs are during winter, while in spring the area abounds with native azaleas

An old tree root wad along Pickle Creek